Fit help
Types of bras
Two bras in the same size can fit very differently. Here is what each style changes, and which fit problems it can help with.
Bra styles
Showing all 9 styles
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Full cup
Cups that come higher at the top and sides, covering most of the breast.
- Full cup
- Wired
- Non-wired
- Seamed
- Moulded
- Everyday
- What it changes
- More of the cup sits above the nipple line, so there is less chance of spilling over the top edge.
- Worth trying for
-
- Spilling over lower-cut cups
- Fuller upper breast tissue
- Everyday wear under higher necklines
- Check when you try it
- The top edge lies flat against you without cutting in or standing away.
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Balconette
A straighter, more horizontal top edge, usually with straps set wider apart.
- Balconette
- Wired
- Seamed
- Moulded
- Everyday
- What it changes
- The lower, straight neckline suits square and wide necklines; wide-set straps change how the bra sits on your shoulders.
- Worth trying for
-
- Gaping at the top of fuller cups
- Square or scoop necklines
- Fuller lower breast tissue
- Check when you try it
- Wide-set straps stay on your shoulders; if they slip, a style with closer straps may suit you better.
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Demi
A lower-cut cup that covers roughly half to three-quarters of the breast.
- Demi
- Wired
- Moulded
- Seamed
- Everyday
- What it changes
- Less fabric at the top, so the cup edge sits lower. The name overlaps with balconette, and brands use both differently.
- Worth trying for
-
- Lower necklines
- Firmer upper breast tissue
- Gaping in full-cup styles
- Check when you try it
- No spilling over the lower edge when you lean forward.
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Plunge
A low, narrow centre front, with the cups angled in towards each other.
- Plunge
- Wired
- Moulded
- Seamed
- Everyday
- What it changes
- The centre front sits much lower than usual, so it can feel different at the centre even in your normal size.
- Worth trying for
-
- V necklines
- Close-set breasts
- Centre fronts that dig in or stand away in other styles
- Check when you try it
- The low centre front still sits against your chest rather than floating.
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T-shirt bra
Smooth, seamless moulded cups that do not show under fitted tops.
- Full cup
- Demi
- Moulded
- Wired
- Non-wired
- Everyday
- What it changes
- Moulded cups keep a fixed shape, so they suit some breast shapes better than others even in the right size.
- Worth trying for
-
- Fitted or thin tops
- A smooth outline
- Check when you try it
- The cup shape matches yours: moulded cups that gape at the top may simply be the wrong shape.
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Non-wired
Support from the band, seams and fabric rather than an underwire.
- Full cup
- Plunge
- Non-wired
- Seamed
- Moulded
- Everyday
- What it changes
- Without wires, the band and the cup seams do more of the work, so a firm, level band matters even more.
- Worth trying for
-
- Wires that dig in or poke
- Lounging and sleep
- Sensitive skin under the bust
- Check when you try it
- The band stays level and the cups do not slide upwards when you raise your arms.
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Strapless
No shoulder straps, so the band does all of the holding.
- Balconette
- Full cup
- Wired
- Moulded
- Strapless
- What it changes
- With nothing on your shoulders, the band does all the holding, so it needs to be firm and level. Check the fit more carefully than you would for an everyday bra.
- Worth trying for
-
- Strapless and off-the-shoulder tops
- Wide necklines
- Check when you try it
- The band stays put when you raise your arms, and the top edge does not roll or slip down.
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Sports bra
Designed to reduce movement during exercise, often sized differently.
- Full cup
- Non-wired
- Moulded
- Wired
- Sports
- What it changes
- Sports bras are usually firmer than everyday bras, and many brands size them in S, M and L or dress sizes rather than band and cup.
- Worth trying for
-
- Running and high-impact exercise
- Reducing bounce
- Check when you try it
- Move the way you will during exercise: jump or jog on the spot and check for bounce, rubbing and riding up.
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Bralette
A soft, unlined, usually non-wired bra, often in lace or stretch fabric.
- Plunge
- Demi
- Non-wired
- Bralette
- What it changes
- Light structure and stretch fabric give less support and shaping, and they are often sized in S, M and L.
- Worth trying for
-
- Comfort and lounging
- Light support
- Showing under open tops
- Check when you try it
- The band still sits level; the stretch fabric should not ride up at the back.
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How cups are made
The way a cup is built changes how it fits as much as the style name does:
- Moulded cups are shaped in one piece, often lightly padded. They are smooth under clothes but keep a fixed shape.
- Seamed cups are sewn from two or more panels. The seams shape the cup, so they can suit a wider range of breast shapes.
- Unlined cups have no padding. They take your shape rather than giving you one.
- Underwires run in a channel round the bottom of each cup. They should sit in the fold under your breast.
Fabrics
- Lace can be stretchy or rigid. Rigid lace holds a shape; stretch lace follows yours. See our lace bra guide.
- Cotton jersey is soft and breathable, common in wire-free, sleep and nursing bras.
- Satin and microfibre are smooth, so they disappear under fitted tops.
If a style gapes or digs in at your usual size, try a different construction before a different size. The bra fitting guide explains what to look for.
